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Finally…Crunchy Pickles! (Lacto-Fermented and Canned)

August 26th, 2009 · 20 Comments · Avoiding Waste, Do It Yourself, Food for Thought, KS lifestyle, Special Situations, What to Buy, frugality, recipes

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img_7403Phew!  I don’t like having mishaps and failures in the kitchen.  So much time, so much capital and raw material invested in any new venture.  I was pretty excited and nervous to try my hand at canning, and I was (mildly) devastated when the result was soft pickles.  Lacto-fermentation had similar results, but the pickles were downright mushy.

Luckily Lovey Girl LOVES pickles, and the mushy ones are right up her alley.  She’ll finish the jar of lacto-fermented ones for us.  The canned version tastes DELISH, so I think I can use them for potato salad.  I can tolerate the texture when eating them whole, too.

Tempted: The Impulse Buy

I was bummed out about the failures, though, and absolutely decided I would not be tackling pickles again without someone to help me who knows what they’re doing.  Hmph.  Done.  Finished.  …until I saw the most beautiful, humongous stalks of dill being sold at the Farmer’s Market for a mere dollar.  I hemmed.  I hawed.  I couldn’t pass them up!  I bought the dill, which was, without exaggeration, as tall as me, with heads as big as…well, as big as my head!  Three whole plants, roots and all!  As I walked away from the stand, it struck me:  now I have to buy some more cucumbers and make more pickles!

Other women’s impulse buys, I’m sure, are often shoes, clothing or jewelry.  Me?  I buy dill at the Farmer’s Market. I don’t always think through these impulse buys though!  I found a basket of “seconds” at the organic stand and bought them for $2.50.  I actually left them there and had to drive all the way back, but that’s another story and another proof of my mommy-brain disability!

Take Two: Pickles

I feel like I can actually share the recipe this time, because I did it!  The lacto-fermented pickles did their thing for two days on the counter, and I tasted them and decided they were quite good, and quite crunchy!  So excited!  I can’t open the canned ones yet, because (if you’ve kept count), my fridge is plenty full enough of pickles.  I’m assuming that since I did the same two tricks for pickle crunch, they’ll be excellent.  (How’s that for an ego?)

If you’re ready to try something new, here are the pickle recipes I used.  The lacto-fermented version is inspired by Sandor Ellis Katz’s Wild Fermentation: The Flavor, Nutrition, and Craft of Live-Culture Foods and this Fermented Foods post at Nourishing Days.  The canned pickles come from my dear friend Maria, who is patient enough to give it to me over the phone!

Recipe: Lacto-Fermented Garlic Pickles

For a 1/2 gallon jar

Whole cucumbers or cut into spears to fill jar (about 4 medium)
Pot or sink full of ice water
8 cloves garlic (Sandor Katz says 3 whole bulbs, but he’s kind of a garlic freak.  This was good enough for our family; fiddle with it for yours.)
1 Tbs mustard seeds (optional)
4-5 oak leaves, fresh from tree
4 black peppercorns
1 head and 3 sprigs fresh dill
7 Tbs whey
2 Tbs sea salt
2 c. filtered water plus more to fill jar
(optional) Clean plastic lid that fits inside the jar

  1. For at least 3 hours but no more than 8, soak the cucumbers in ice cold water.  Really.  Add lots of ice.  Keep adding it.  I even put mine in ice water in a pot in the fridge.  Those cucumbers were going to be COLD, doggone it!  This helps them to get and stay crisp, especially if your cukes aren’t directly from the garden that day.
    img_7423
  2. If you’re going to slice or cut your cukes into spears, just put them back into the ice water until you’re ready to get them all into the jar.
  3. Put garlic, mustard seeds, peppercorns, dill and oak leaves at the bottom of your half-gallon glass jar.  (Note:  I would put the sprigs of dill and half the garlic at the top after the cukes next time.)
    Yup.  Leaves in my food.

    Yup. Leaves in my food.

  4. Pack the cucumbers in the jar.  If you get them adjusted so they hold each other in  and prevent floating, you’ll have fewer problems with mold on top.
  5. Mix 2 cups filtered water with the whey and sea salt until dissolves.  Pour over cucumbers.  Add more filtered water to fill the jar without about an inch from the top.
  6. If you have a plastic lid that fits inside your jar, place it on top of the cucumbers and weigh it down (with water or something clean and heavy – Katz recommends a boiled rock).  Its job it to keep the cucumbers submersed in the water.

    This is a lid from a mayo container, small-mouthed quart size.  It fits perfectly!

    This is a lid from a mayo container, small-mouthed quart size. It fits perfectly!

  7. Put the lid on tightly and leave in a warm place (anywhere in your kitchen in the summer should do) for 2-3 days.  You can taste the pickles whenever you want.  Moving them won’t hurt the fermentation, but you’ll want to arrange them so they’re submersed again.
  8. When you’re happy with the flavor, store the finished pickles in the refrigerator.  You can take the plastic lid out at this point. I like them, although they’re still not as tasty as the store pickles I’m used to. I tell myself they’re so healthy, and that helps. My husband doesn’t like cucumbers (but does like conventional pickles), and he says they still taste too much like cucumbers, if that helps anyone.

The jar of lacto-fermented pickles, ready to ferment.

The jar of lacto-fermented pickles, ready to ferment.

How to Make Successful Crunchy Pickles: Two KEY Steps

Oak Leaves (or grape or horseradish leaves): I was a little weirded out by putting oak leaves in my food, but I kept telling myself that all our food comes from outside, and I’m not actually eating the oak leaves.  I used leaves from the ground that were still green in my first batch.  Mush.  Pick them right off the tree the day you make the pickles, even if your neighbors might think you odd for standing on a chair picking oak leaves at 9:00 at night.  Trust me.

An Ice Water Bath: The ICE cold water also makes a difference.  I had a little space left in my jar and no cucumbers left, so I grabbed a few from the fridge that I had saved for eating and added them to the lacto-fermented batch.  I cut them differently, because I love a good experiment.  Results?  They are definitelyI less crunchy than their ice-bathed counterparts.  Do the ice bath.  (You’ll know it’s cold enough when you reach in for the cucumbers, and your hands are so cold that you almost pee your pants.)

Recipe:  Canned Garlic Dill Pickles

Makes 8 quarts
I made about 4 quarts of spears and 2 smaller jars of pickle slices, plus a jar of sliced hot peppers with the same brine (but no dill for the peppers, of course).  I cut the recipe by a fourth.

4 c. white vinegar
12 c. water
2/3 c. pickling salt (I used sea salt; see why pickling salt is recommended at this very helpful post!)
2 cloves garlic PER QUART, sliced or crushed to let the fla-vah out
1 sprig dill week PER QUART
1 head of dill PER QUART
1-2 fresh oak leaves PER QUART

  1. Soak cucumbers in ICE water at least 3 hours but not more than 8.  (See above for details.)  You can leave them whole or slice or spear them.
  2. Sterilize jars and lids in boiling water 10 minutes. (I used the water in my big canning pot so I could just use the same water again to seal the jars.)
  3. Mix vinegar, water and salt.  Bring to a rolling boil.
  4. Make sure your water in the canning pot is boiling away and ready.
  5. In each jar, put oak leaves, 1 clove garlic and the head of dill at the bottom.
  6. Fill with cucumbers (don’t go above the bottom of the thread line on the jar).
  7. Place the other clove of garlic and sprig of dill on top.
  8. Fill with boiling brine to 1 inch from the top (approximately the bottom of the threads on the jar).
  9. Wipe rim clean of liquid with a clean dishcloth.
  10. Seal with lid and rim.
  11. Carefully lower canning rack into boiling water.  Make sure it covers at least 1 inch over the tops of the jars.
  12. Process in boiling water 15 minutes.
  13. Remove jars and allow to sit on the counter overnight.
  14. If any jars have not sealed, move to the fridge.
  15. Wait 8 weeks before eating for the flavors to fully enter the pickles.  (But they’re really good before that time, too, if you just can’t wait to try them!)

img_7357

What I Learned About Canning
  • Canning is stressful.  You worry about not getting everything right, not keeping things hot enough, not moving fast enough, and a little about poisoning your family.  (Be sure to read up on safe canning if you try it for the first time!)
  • Getting out all the supplies before messing with the hot stuff is the key to success.

    All the canning ingredients in order so I don't have to think too hard as I fill the hot jars.

    All the canning ingredients in order so I don't have to think too hard as I fill the hot jars.

  • The ice bath and the oak leaves are vital for pickles.
  • It’s pretty frugal:  I figure I would have spent at least $16 to buy this stuff in the store, and I spent $5 MAXimum plus the energy costs and my time.
  • The little “POP!” as the jars seal is the most gratifying sound in the world after you’ve worked so hard (see no. 1) to make the pickles.

Disclaimer:  Please keep in mind that this was my first time canning, more or less.  I don’t know what I’m doing.  Canning is a little scary because of the risk of bacteria and death.  If I were you, I would use the food part of my recipe and go somewhere like Canning Jars, Etc for the method!

Disclosure:  The Amazon link will give me  a small kickback, but I would just get the book from the library if I were you!  In fact, I did.  :)

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20 Comments so far ↓

  • Pam

    We planted our first garden last year. It was also the first time I had tried my hand at canning. My mom always canned growing up – and she never poisoned us. :) But, since she lives in another state, I didn’t have her with me to supervise. So, I was pretty nervous, like you. I got a book on canning and read it before I started. I called my Mom when I had a question on canning day. I experimented with my own salsa last year, and realized that I need to stick with the formulas in the book. Other than that, all was well. This year, I’m much more comfortable with it. I even canned my beans yesterday from memory.

    Keep it up. Your nerves will calm down and your confidence will soar as you get more comfortable with it. The pay-off all winter is definitely worth the bit of work at the end of summer.

    [Reply to this comment]

    Katie Reply:

    I can’t wait to try salsa – with grandma’s help! :)

    [Reply to this comment]

  • Cara @ Health Home and Happiness

    I’m going to have to try the leaves thing some time. I made more-crisp lactofermented pickles the first time I tried them, I think it wasn’t so hot in my kitchen. In my most recent batch (yesterday) I left them out 2 days rather than 3, hope that helps.

    [Reply to this comment]

  • Pennywise Platter Thursday 8/26

    [...] After two attempts, I’ve finally found the trick – two tricks, actually – to making both canned and lacto-fermented pickles that are crunchy, not mushy. Luckily my one-year-old likes the mushy ones, but if you don’t have a toothless pickle-lover in your house, check out the crunchy pickle post! [...]

  • Kimi @ The Nourishing Gourmet

    Thanks for sharing your pickling experiences! I need to try my hand at pickling some cucks. :-)

    [Reply to this comment]

  • Emily Lorenz

    wait, I must know. . . how does the flavor of the canned pickles (and crunch for that matter) compare to the lacto-fermented – for you, your husband, and compared to delicious store bought (I actually first skimmed from the first ‘review’ to find the missing second – before returning to read more thoroughly) At first I was disappointed (seeing the 8 week comment) but then saw you may not have been able to wait. . .

    [Reply to this comment]

    Katie Reply:

    My second try at lacto-fermented pickles are fairly crunchy, but they don’t exactly make a sound like you’d need for a good pickle commercial though. The taste is a little on the sour side, so they don’t taste quite like the store pickles that I like (Polish or Kosher). Hubby thinks they’re too much like cucumbers.

    The reason I tried pickles in the first place is because I had them (canned) at my friend’s, and they were SO tasty. Like, I asked for a second and had to restrain myself from stealing the jar and taking it home. ;) This is her recipe, so I’m banking on my second batch tasting like hers, but I don’t have room in the fridge to taste them yet. The first batch had the taste but not the crunch…

    [Reply to this comment]

  • Leesie

    First time visitor via The Nourishing Gourmet. Hello!

    Ice water bath — so that’s why pickles didn’t stay crunchy! I pretty much used the same method in your post, but mine did get very mushy after being in the frig.

    Thanks for sharing the important tip!

    [Reply to this comment]

  • gr8tchr4u

    I have to comment here, the National Center for Food Preservation no longer endorses grape leaves or any other sort of leaves in pickles. While the tannins in leaves might act as a crisping agent, most are more concerned about the pollutants in the leaves.

    http://www.uga.edu/nchfp/how/can_home.html

    I am also certified in food preservation and food safety. Your fermented pickles are not processed long enough to avoid Listeria bacteria and a host of other bugs. If you choose to do fridge or icicle pickles, please remain aware that you need to consume them within a month, since they are not water-bath canned at all.

    Finally, if you want crisp pickles, get yourself a Ball Blue Book (the bible of canning) and choose a recipe. To said recipe, add 3/4 tsp of Calcium Chloride for a pint or 1 1/2 tsp for a quart. This is a readily available crisping agent that also allows you to omit salt from your recipe.

    I hope you check out the National Center for Home Preserving site that that you want to can even more.

    [Reply to this comment]

    Katie Reply:

    Wow, what a wealth of information! We probably will eat the lf pickles (in the fridge) in a month – no room for them to hang out there longer! There are health benefits to lf foods that aren’t found in canned foods, so I’ll probably still do both in the future.

    If I washed the oak leaves in hot water, why would they have any more pollutants than my tomatoes growing 30 feet from the oak tree, or the lettuce I buy at the store for that matter?

    Thank you so much for the comment and tips!
    Katie

    [Reply to this comment]

  • Shelley

    Thanks for sharing your tips. My mom only made bread and butter pickles (my fave) but DH only likes the kosher dills. I can’t wait to try the recipes. One note- one reason for using pickling salt vs. non-idodized salt (sea salt) is because pickling salt dissolves in cold water.

    [Reply to this comment]

  • Mary

    This was a really ambitious undertaking! Thanks for sharing your tips with us. The pickles look wonderful.

    [Reply to this comment]

  • gr8tchr4u

    I’ve not done any lacto-fermented foods, I just don’t have the space. A friend of mine does and she said she noticed a difference if the leaves she picked were smaller and new, picked from underneath, the same day she canned them, just an hour before. I’ve tried grape leaves and cherry leaves, no oak, though.

    Regarding the pollutants, some people don’t care. Some people find, depending on where they live (city, country, suburbs) that taste can differ. Also, if you fertilize trees or use pesticides / fertilizers on lawn, or around the trees, these can be carried into the leaves.

    [Reply to this comment]

  • Alyss

    I just posted a follow up to my lacto fermented pickle tutorial which is a Pickle FAQ. One of the most common questions I get is how to keep pickles crisp. I never had a good answer, but now I have your post to point people to!! I’m definitely going to try the ice bath trick if my cucumber plants give me more cucumbers :)

    Thanks so much!!

    [Reply to this comment]

  • Beau

    Great post! I’m on week three of a fermented pickle experiment. The first 7-10 days the pickles were really firm, but they’ve softened up quite a bit now. They still taste good, but a little too soft. Someday I’d love to figure out how to keep them in a barrel for several months. But batch #2 coming up, and I’m glad to read the tips in your article- thanks!

    [Reply to this comment]

  • Lacto-Fermentation Update « True Life of Z

    [...] did not go as planned.  I know the photo looks promising, but that was day 1.  I decided to try this recipe which seems very well researched and tested.  However, it turns out that lacto fermentation [...]

  • Pickl-It

    Plastic inside your pickling jar can leach bad chemicals into your pickles. Also, hot water bath canning is destroying the nutritional goodness of your wonderful lacto-fermented pickles. Check out Pickl-It for an easy and great tasting approach to making lacto-fermented vegetables. System includes a glass “dunk’r” for holding down vegetables during fermentation.

    [Reply to this comment]

  • kc

    Thanks for doing all the pickle experiments. I didn’t have a single cucumber pickle last year because I didn’t live near a farmers market and the grocery store never had pickling cucumbers available. I will be making pickles this year whether from my plants or the huge farmers market near my new home.

    I had read about the oak leaves, grape leaves, etc. to keep pickles crispy but have yet to try it. This gives me confidence that my lacto-fermented cucumbers will be crispy. Do you suppose the same method will work for squash or zucchini? I love the flavor but hate the texture of those two ferments.

    By the way, you could try using boiled glass marbles in a cheesecloth “bag” to hold the veggies below the brine level. It works much better than a rigid insert. :)
    kc´s last blog ..Taco Bread and Other Quickbreads (Homemade and Corn-free) My ComLuv Profile

    [Reply to this comment]

    Katie Reply:

    KC,
    Great suggestion on the weight. I haven’t a clue about other fermented vegs; this was my first try at any lacto-fermenting! :) Katie

    [Reply to this comment]

  • Carrie

    Got some cukes on sale and finally had enough to keep ahead of my cucumber-devouring kids to try your pickles! I haven’t finished yet, but wanted to add one more suggestion from Alton Brown for crunchiness: cut off the ends. He says some chemical in the stem makes that end go mushy, and I’ve definitely noticed that with raw cucumbers, so it makes sense to me. I’ll let you know how it works!

    [Reply to this comment]

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